The Cage
In general, the more space you can give your chinchilla, the better. Different sources recommend various sizes of cages. The minimum cage size I would recommend depends on the chinchilla and its circumstances. A more active chinchilla requires more room. However, if you provide a good running wheel, you can cut back a bit on cage size, maybe by about 25%. Also, the more time you can allow for your chinchilla to play outside the cage, the happier it will be, regardless of cage size. This also allows you to get away with a slightly smaller cage. A cage at least 14" deep by 18" wide by 24" tall should be adequate if your chinchilla has a wheel and playtime privileges. For your own sake, I highly recommend a pull-out bottom tray. It makes clean up so much easier.
There are many types of cages available, including all wire cages, part wire and part wood cages, cages with plastic or metal bottom trays. Some pets stores carry ready made cages for small animals. Many chinchilla owners make their own cages. When choosing what type of cage to buy, remember that chinchillas will chew on anything they can get their teeth around. Paint, plastic, and certain woods (including cedar) are harmful to chinnies. Try to avoid these materials in your cage. Many cages have plastic bottom trays. This is acceptable as long as the chin can't reach the edge to get a hold to nibble on. If you choose a wire cage, make sure the floor wire is 1/2" square and the wall and top wire is no more than 1/2" by 1." I have seen my chinchillas escape from enclosures with 1" by 1" wire! They're mostly fur, after all.
Whatever type of cage you get, make sure it is interesting for your chins. They like multiple levels to jump on. You can provide shelves made of untreated wood, or add "leap 'n' ledges." I recommend a running wheel for every chinchilla cage. Running wheels should be at least 15" in diameter, to avoid spinal problems. Many owners prefer solid metal wheels, so that paws can't get stuck. Chinchillas can run very fast, and have been known to break a leg by getting it caught in a wheel. Another great cage accessory is a hiding spot for your chin. Some suitable items include wooden or cardboard boxes (with no nails, plastic, or ink), terra cotta pots, or PVC pipes.
In the bottom of the cage, you'll need some kind of absorbent material for bedding. NEVER use cedar, since it can be poisonous to chins. Some good materials include pine shavings, aspen shavings, or shreds of paper with no ink. Today, many newspapers use nontoxic inks that are safe for pets. Check with yours to see if this is the case. But beware, toxic or not, the ink will rub off on your chinny's fur! Some people use organic kitty litter such as "Country Fresh" for bedding. This is fine, but make sure the litter is not the scoopable type. This kind of litter will clump in the chinchilla's stomach, causing intestinal obstruction, which is fatal.
Food and Hay
Chinchillas in the wild eat a very high fiber, low nutrient diet. As pets, they should be fed special chinchilla pellets. Most pet stores stock chinchilla food in the small animal section. If your local pet store does not, you can order Mazuri chinchilla diet or a variety of other chinchilla foods from online suppliers (see links). Provide a food dish that the chinchillas can't destroy or soil. I use ceramic bowls that are dishwasher safe for easy sanitation. You can also use metal dishes that attach to the cage wall. Typically, each chinchilla will require 2 Tbsp of food per day. This can be given once per day, in the evening, or divided into morning and evening meals.
No matter what type of food you feed your chinny, you should also give as much hay as it will eat. Either alfalfa or timothy hay is acceptable. Many chinchilla experts recommend a mixture of the two. Hay is available loose, in bales, in mini-bales, and in compressed hay cubes. If you get loose or baled hay, you will also need a hay hopper to put it in, or the chinchillas will spread it all over the cage! With the compressed cubes, they can be placed directly in the cage.
Also essential is some source of water. Although you can give water in a bowl, chins are likely to urinate in it. Glass or plastic water bottles can be found at any pet store, and most grocery store pet aisles. An eight-ounce bottle is a good size for one or two chinnies. Some chinchillas will nibble on plastic bottles. In this case, you can buy a metal bottle guard, or get a glass bottle.
Dust Bath
As you may already know, chinchillas do not bathe in water. In fact, you should avoid getting your chinchilla wet, since they can take a chill. And there's nothing more pathetic- looking than a wet chinchilla.
Instead, chinchillas keep their fur soft and fluffy by bathing in sand/dust. Most pet stores stock chinchilla bath dust in their small animal section. If your local pet store doesn't, you can order it online from any of several chinchilla suppliers (see links). The bath house can be anything, from a simple bowl to a special house designed for the purpose. A common object that works well as a bath house is a glass fish bowl. The smaller opening helps prevent dust in the air. Achoo!
Toys and Treats
There are many toys and treats available for chinchillas. I find that even if you spend a small fortune on treats at the pet store, their favorite will still be raisins! Actually, I give my chinnies a variety of dried fruits. Raisins, white raisins, dried cranberries, dried apples, dried apricots, dried peaches, and banana chips are all ok. Some people have given chinchillas corn flakes, almonds, popcorn, apple slices and other small tidbits. Whatever you give, only give 1-2 small pieces per day. Any more, and you risk diarrhea. Never give chinchillas meat or meat-based products. They are strictly herbivores.
When buying toys, you must again take into account the chinchilla's chewing instinct. All toys must be nontoxic. Avoid plastic toys. In general, a toy designed for a hamster, guinea pig, or rabbit is ok for a chin, as long as it isn't cedar. But if you want to be sure, check with a vet. My chins' favorite toys are flavored wooden chew sticks.
Veterinarians
Chinchillas are considered exotic pets. It can be difficult to find a veterinarian who even treats chinchillas, much less one who is experienced with them. Once you have decided to get a chinchilla, do a vet search in your area. It is important to have a vet you can call before you ever get the chinchilla. Having an emergency and not knowing who to call is the worst feeling.
Once you get your new pet, make an appointment with your vet for a check up. This way, the vet will be familiar with you and your pet. The vet will probably weigh your chinny, listen to its heart and lungs, examine its eyes and teeth, and do a fecal float. This test checks for intestinal parasites. Chinnies don't usually get any vaccinations.
Handling Your Chinchilla
Some chinchillas are friendlier than others. When you first meet a chinchilla, put your hand just inside the cage, and wait. Don't make any sudden sounds or movements. A relatively tame chinny will soon come close to give your fingers a sniff and a nibble. Try slowly moving your hand toward the chinchilla. If it sits still and lets you scratch its chin or behind its ears, then you already have a tame chinchilla. If it darts toward the back of the cage at the first sign of movement, you have a normal chinchilla! Leave your hand still again, and the chinny will likely come back. This time, offer it a treat. If your chinny is not already tame, it will take some time and patience on your part. It may take a few minutes, or a few weeks. But with patience, most any chin will warm up to you.
When picking up a chinchilla, try to avoid grasping it by the fur. Chinchilla fur pulls out easily, which is a defense mechanism in the wild. Also, never pick up a chinchilla by the tip of the tail. You could pull the whole tail off. The easiest way to pick up a chinny is to get it to walk onto your open hands. This is usually best accomplished by training with treats. Place a treat on your open hand. The next time, place it on your wrist. Then, put it on your forearm. If you continue this way, you can train your chinny to climb all the way up to your shoulder.
Chinchilla Social Life
Chinchillas live in large colonies in the wild. So, they enjoy each other's company. However, female chinchillas tend to be somewhat territorial. They get along best with their own sisters, or another close female relative. Likewise, with male chinchillas, they will get along best if they are related. Obviously, if you are pairing a male and a female, they shouldn't be related.
When you introduce two chinchillas of any gender for the first time, keep them in separate cages, side by side so that they can get used to each other's smells and sounds. Then, try letting them play together under supervision. If they are getting along well, move both chinchillas into a brand new cage that neither chin has ever lived in. This prevents the territorial instinct from dooming the new pair from the start. If you are having a particularly tough time with two chinnies, try putting a drop of vanilla extract on each nose. This way, they can get used to each other's smells more gradually as the vanilla evaporates. Good luck!